Wednesday, 23 September 2009

Clothes Make the Man

Here are two short fashion articles I wrote for consecutive issues of The Project on two very different autumn looks:

The City Slicker

Men are looking more and more for classic items that will be fashionable for years, investment pieces that will age well and not fall apart after a season’s wear. The Harrington jacket, for example, has seen a huge boom recently.

Now summer is over though, outerwear needs to be able to weather wind and rain. The classic beige flyfronted mac is a perfect solution. Mackintosh do the original and best. Or a Burberry trenchcoat. For high street alternatives, Uniqlo have great trenchcoats, and Topman have a good range of peacoats as long as you avoid the overdesigned stuff. They also have a lovely velvet-collared crombie for a smarter look.

There are some great options around for button-down shirts. The classic Brutus shirts are back in action this year, although their options are as yet somewhat limited. Aertex have some great, slim fitting styles and they can procured from Philip Browne in the lanes.

Match these with loafers, penny or tassle. The classic are Bass Weejuns, which you’ll be lucky to find in store unless you make a special visit to J Simons in Covent Garden, but good alternatives are popping up everywhere on the high street. Or brogues: a good pair has at least 500 holes. Loake Royals for a city look or something chunkier by Alfred Sargent or Church’s. Always go for leather soles and have them resoled: they will last forever and improve with age.

Denim is thankfully being paid more attention on the high street recently, with Topman doing some great dry denim that won’t break the bank and Uniqlo selling real Japanese selvedge denim for a song. Or splash out on Nudies or Levi’s 511s.

The look is smart and classic but not uptight. The individuality is in combinations of colour and texture. Layering is key, and top it off with a pair of Ray Bans and a good scarf, or a trilby in inclement weather. Suited and booted.


The Rough Rambler

If last week we told you how to look suave about town, this week we’re offering a more rough and ready autumn look. Hardwearing but comfortable, the focus should be on warmth and versatility, on country practicality over city chic.

Flannel shirts are making their statement in shops all over, with a huge and varied range in my personal shop-of-the-moment, UniQlo. Denim and chambray work shirts and jackets are also strong this season, with designers such as Ralph Lauren pushing the theme and the high street thankfully cottoning on as well.

Chunky, chunky knitwear. Gap have the nicest shawl-collar cardigan I’ve seen since they started to really take off some months ago. Very Steve McQueen. H&M also have some good offerings. Great for layering between shirts and coats or for wearing at home in front of the fireplace after a hard day chopping wood. If you can bear the label, Jack Wills have some nice knits at the moment, and if you can’t but have the dosh, check out French minimalists APC.

Barbour coats are the classic casual country attire and can be found in Gallyons on Bedford Street. If you like the quilted look, Ralph Lauren have a lovely quilted hacking jacket at the moment. For updated classics in checks and tweeds, there are great jackets around by brands such as Engineered Garments and Woolrich Woolen Mills. Or keep checking Norwich’s charity shops for classic army parkas and shearling coats.

Chukka boots and desert boots, heavier brogues or even moccasin boots from someone like Quoddy or Red Wing would all look great with just about any of the things I’ve mentioned. Even a pair of beaten up old hiking boots. Worn leather will really complete the look, which shouldn’t be too polished.

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